Ranthambore and Keoladeo National Parks, Jan 24--27

coming back from seeing our tiger--we're happy

The sole reason for going to Ranthambore is to see a tiger, but since the chances are only at 22% of spotting one during this season, I do not have high hopes. We arrive at 1 in the afternoon, have a lunch and are off on a safari at 3.

There are 2 kind of vehicles possivble to take on a safari: a 20 person open truck or a jeep for 5. The less expensive is the 20 person vehicle, of course, so we first opt for that one. It's sunny but chilly as we drive out to the national park and enter amid touts selling all kind of souvenirs, especially jackets, hats and t shirts. The roads are 2 wheel tracks and the woods are mostly trees with little underbrush. We see many animals—sambar deer, spotted deer, two types of owls, wild boar, monkeys, gazelles, Indian magpie and about 6 other species of birds. Alas, no tigers. After 3 hours, we turn back and deliver everyone to their own hotel. Tomorrow we'll try again, this time in the morning.

T34

So, at 7 am we again board (this time a jeep) and head to another area with an even narrower track that can't accommodate large trucks. The driver and guide spot some tiger tracks, but the woods, this time, are very dense. There are trees but with tall grass covering the area beneath them. I take a photo of the tiger print just in case it's the closest we get to the real thing. I also take a photo of the narrow lane that we are about to turn on. As soon as we turn, however, our driver comes to a quick halt. "Tiger," our guide says and all heads snap to the left. Sure enough, the tiger that must have been coming toward us, before we turned the corner, has just stepped off the road and into the tall grass. He looks back, and neatly disappears into the camouflage, but I get a quick camera shot off and Terry, who is sitting behind me, takes the camera with the telephoitself to and gets another. The beast is very very big, and as we learn later, he is T34, the largest tiger in the park. What a magnificent specimen! He's about 400 pounds, his back is 4 ft high and he's about 6 ft long plus his tail which is about 4 feet.

With that, our quest has ended, and we make plans to leave tomorrow, happy about it since the hotel is freezing. They're expperiencing an unexpected cold spell and have no heat. Brrr. Maybe Bharatpur and Kaladeo Bird Sanctuary will be warmer.

yours truly there behind the speaker

a 12-year-old dancer

darling school children--and well-behaved

The trip to Bharatpur and Keoladeo National Park starts off calmly enough. It's January 26, India's Republic Day and people are gathered in every town mostly at the school grounds. I ask our driver what they do there, and he says that they mostly pray. But when we pass by in some villages, it looks like there is music, too. I keep questioning him about it, so he finally stops and suggests that I peek into one, which I think is a good idea. So, I walk up to the tall fence that surrounds the school yard, and look inside. At that, some boys see me and motion for me to come in. Thinking I could stand at the back of the small crowd and take a few photos, I go in. But, to my surprise, the speaker at the front of the gathering acknowledges me and announces my visit. All heads turn and a murmur rises. Should I cut and run? No, I go to the front of the assembly, sit down, watch singers and dancers, make a little speech, smile, and wonder to myself how in the world I am going to get away without hurting any feelings. After about an hour and Terry's entry and introduction, shaking hands with everyone who passes by, I whisper to the master of ceremonies that we really need to carry on with our trip. We slip out.

one of the school boys

4 lanes of traffic going every which-way

Pretty soon, however, we run into miles of trucks parked on one side of the road in the left hand lane of traffic.  Jaq finds it very difficult for us to proceed, and we weave in and out, along with the usual road warriors.  Now, however, we have to contend with a one lane road and lots of holiday traffic that includes about 500 trucks.  Venicles are passing on all sides; it looks like a free-for-all.  We need some tranquilizers.  Just another wild and crazy day of traffic in India.

an overloaded truck, too

male blue bull

We arrive in Bharatpur just in time to go to Keoladeo National Park where we take a three mile hike with our guide who points out about 20 different species of birds, many migrating from Mongolia, Siberia and Afghanistan. My favorite is the citron wagtill (he calls it) which is a beautiful bright yellow, but the pink-footed stork is Terry's favorite. The marshland, which is an old raj hunting ground, is quiet and peaceful, a welcome respite from the drive.  It is a world famous bird sanctuary and one of the most important bird breeding and feeding grounds.  We also spot a blue bull, the largest species in the gazelle family; it's about the size of an elk.  A jackal watches us then slips away; we hear him howling a sound like a baby's cry a few minutes later.  As darkness closes in, we make our way out of the park and walk back to the hotel.

some of the goodies at the wedding party

On the way, we pass the preparation for a wedding celebration, and we stick our heads in the fenced in area, decorated with awnings, cloth, and blinking lights.  It is the size of a football field, and all around the edge are booths filled with people who are cooking and serving food.  What an array of goodies!  Indians traditionally spend millions of rupees for wedding ceremonies and receptions, and this one is typical, we are told.  It's pretty amazing.  No wonder parents start saving the minute a daughter is born.  We are shown around, given a sample of something delicious, then we make our way to our own hotel next door for dinner.  The party goes full tilt until midnight.  We sleep peacefully after that, ready to hit the road tomorrow, bound for Agra and the Taj Mahal.

 coming at us from all directions. Just another day of driving in India!