Kerala, Jan 9--14

riding in a tuk-tuk

Flying from Goa to Kerala was infinitely easier, faster, and more comfortable than taking the train from Mumbai to Goa.  But if we thought the traffic was bad in Mumbai and Goa, we got a real awakening in Ernakulam.  Just when we think it might be calmer, we get into rush hour traffic with yet more motorcycles and tuk-tuks (covered motorcycles) weaving in and out, passing in front of oncoming cars and buses, and squeezing between vehicles of all sizes.  However, as I write this, I really must say that the Indian taxi drivers are an amazing lot.  They are caught up in a game of dodge-em cars with eyes not only in front but on the sides and in back as well.  There must be a set of unwritten rules for who passes and who holds back.  I can't figure it out, but it's a well-choreographed dance.

Delight Home Stay in Ft Cochin

Our hotel in Ft. Cochin is really an old home that the owner's mother bought in the 40's for $100.  It is a darling, gingerbread structure with oodles of charm and an absolutely perfect garden, the loveliest we've seen yet.  Having the electricity go off in the morning and evening doesn't take away any of its charisma.

ladies at Dutch palace

Today we see a contemporary art show called The Bienalle and then go to the Dutch Palace where there are a beautiful variety of Indian art.  While there, a group of people who look as if they are visiting also, wanders through, brought up in the end by a very old looking lady.  She looks at me and smiles, and, of course, I smile back.  The next thing I know is that she has taken my hand and holds it through the next gallery.  At the end of that room, all of the people traveling with her come to shake my hand, even the children who either shake my hand or kiss me on the cheek.  I feel like a good luck charm.  We ask them where they are from, but they don't speak English, so I'm not sure if they tell us or if they say something else.

Kathakali dancer

In the evening we attend a Kathakali Show, music and dance of the region.  We begin by watching them apply the makeup for the show, a show in itself.  Then they begin the real presentation which is  pantomime, hand movements, eye expression, body language--all performed to the music of two drums and a small cymbal.  It was wild!  Lots of jumping, spinning, shouting, stamping, gesticulations-all telling the story of rejected love, revenge and redemption (I think).

Kathakali dancers

on the Chinese fishing nets

The next day we walk along the beach at 6:30, expecting to be in little company, but when we arrive, there are so many people walking, jogging, exercising, fishing with big fish nets.  We are invited to come out on the fish net structure (we knew money would be requested) and help them raise the net.  We do and find it easy to raise because they are perfectly counterbalanced.  It's an ancient fishing technique adapted from the Chinese made into a graceful structure.

Our time in Ft Cochin is over and today we are moving to Philipkutty's Coconut Plantation for 2 days.  We travel 1 1/2 hours by taxi and come across a Hindu procession consisting of several people, dressed in white and chanting, followed by an elephant in silver accouterments ridden by a young boy.

ready to cross to the island

hyacinths on the lake

coming out to see us

Riding across the lake on a country boat powered by a man pushing with a pole, with our luggage under our feet, we approach Phillipkutty's farm.  Located on a man-made island on Lake Vembanad, it consists of the main house, eating pavilion, and 7 bungalows with thatched roofs situated in a coconut palm forest.  Having porches with fans and tile roofs, the little houses remain cool despite the 90+ temperatures.  Ours is at the far end of the line with our front door and porch looking out at passing houseboats whose inhabitants wave to us.  Everything is done on the river, and we find that out on our sunset cruise that evening and especially on the canal cruise the next day.  We pass through small villages where people are bathing, washing clothes and cooking on the canal, and we get a glimpse of beautiful birds that are indigenous plus some  that winter in this area.  Even more interesting is the quiet canoe trip we take the next morning through the neighboring village.  Everybody comes out to wave or say hello.  Children practice their English by asking us, "What is your name?"  Everyone smiles.

white breasted kingfisher and a pond heron

ingredients for thoren

Anu showing us how--and fixing our lunch

Our cooking class is a whirlwind of fragrances and color.  We make Kerala fish curry called Varutharachathu, salad with cabbage, carrot and cucumber spiced with cumin, ginger, onion, and turmeric.  We make Kerala rice, which is brown, and plan the spectacular lunch to come.  Oh, and we have ginger-lime tea which is as delicious as it is refreshing.  In fact, everything we have here is a feast for the eyes and nose.   But tomorrow we shift gears from relaxing to intense as we fly to Delhi and there we are picked up by our driver to begin our 3 weeks tour of the northern part of India.