Orchha and Khajuraho, Jan 29--Feb 1

the dark and foreboding Jehangir Palace

some blue tile is left, the rest stripped

These two old villages have some unique architecture. Called Bundela type architecture, the buildings in Orchha, we are told, are the apex of the combination of Islamic and Hindu styles, and the Raj Mahal and Jehangir Mahal are the two 17^th century structures that dominate the town. We are lucky enough to get to stay in Jehangir Palace. It's only about 10% restored; the rest is very dark and imposing, a little spooky in the moonlight with few electric lights around. It's out of town half a mile, and in tall grass and some overgrown bougainvillea, with monkeys playing on the roof and balconies, and cows munching the plants.

It's dark out here!

We are offered dinner on the open balcony, and, thinking it will be a small group of hotel guests, we agree. We are exhausted from the 8 hour drive, so we take a nap, waking a short time before dinner is to be served. We exit our room, which is located on the top floor next to the large open balcony, and find one table set with flowers. I think this is for us. It is a lovely dinner by ourselves with the cool air swirling around, looking at the dark towers around us. I feel like I might be in a book and look for Dracula or some such castle-inhabiting monster.

lots of hidden temples

temple in Khajuraho

Orchha is small and laid-back, so it's a fine place to rest from the crazy traffic we've been embroiled in and just stroll through town. We do that, stopping to look at the market goods, have some lunch, visit some of the other old buildings, walk out to the overgrown, almost hidden temples, and just enjoy the quiet.

musicians at Jehangir Palace

lunch at the market in orchha

beautiful vine at Surya Hotel in Khajuraho

We spend 2 days in Orchha and travel 3 hours to Khajuraho, another small town with some World Heritage architecture covered in sculpture. This is a wonderful rest after the many days of strict schedules. Both towns have some nice cafes and a few things to see. And both towns show us a wedding, the simpler one in Orchha and the fancier one in Khajuraho. Actually, there are two in Khajuraho.

lovely sculpture in Khajuraho

The wedding we see in Orchha is the pre-wedding festivities. It consists of the groom riding a horse and his friends behind and surrounding him with drums announcing the celebration. He looks amazingly sober. Chances are he has not even seen his bride yet; the families have made all the arrangements. So, he may be worried. We asked Jag our driver about this. He told us briefly that arranged marriages are still prevalent in India. Some are “love marriages” but, they don't seem to last as long, according to him. He, himself, has an arranged marriage and will arrange the marriages for his children. He seemed to think that anything else is risky and that marrying out of one's class is the first step to disaster.

Jaq our driver

One of the celebrations we see in Khajurano is before the actual marriage. The groom again rides a horse, but the celebrants have really loud music and bright lights which they keep illuminated with a generator on wheels that follows along. They are obviously inebriated and enjoying their friend's party. The other parade through town is after the marriage and consists of the groom, on foot this time, leading a woman with a scarf that has been tied around her arm. Her face is covered and her head is bowed.  I'm still thinking.....

after the wedding ceremony--a parade